Ethnic Memory in Hong Kong Hakka Food Culture

There is a saying that "Food is the primary necessity of the people (民以食為天)," and food has always held a significant position in Chinese culture. According to the 2021 Hong Kong population census, Hong Kong residents are mainly Cantonese, with many ethnic groups from Hakka, Fujian, and Chaozhou regions. After WWII, large numbers of immigrants came to settle in Hong Kong, bringing their hometown's dietary habits and living culture, which gradually became localized and contributed to the diverse and rich local food culture.

Hakka food culture deeply embodies the Hakka people's characteristics of diligence, thriftiness, and resourcefulness. Their dietary principle is "eating to be full, not to be fancy (吃飽不吃巧)," avoiding expensive ingredients and emphasizing combinations of locally produced vegetables and meats. In early Hong Kong, many Hakka people worked in agriculture with high physical labor demands, which is why Hakka cuisine generally focuses on "oily, salty, and aromatic (油、鹹、香)" flavors to meet daily energy and strength requirements. High-fat cooking helps store calories, salty taste enhances appetite and food preservation, replenishes salt lost through sweating, and rich aromas highlight the unique flavor of Hakka dishes, demonstrating the practical wisdom of Hakka food culture's adaptation to their living environment.

Hakka cuisine primarily circulated within families and villages, gradually integrating into Hong Kong society and developing into a well-known and widely popular local cuisine. Hakka cuisine emphasizes "good value for money (抵食夾大件)" and is renowned for its affordability and quality, deeply appreciated by residents. Famous Hakka restaurants in Hong Kong, such as Mui Kong (梅江), Dong Jiang Lou (東江樓), King Yuen (瓊園), Chuen Cheung Kui (泉章居), and Tsui King Lau (醉瓊樓), all enjoy excellent reputations. Classic Hakka dishes like Salt-baked Chicken (鹽焗雞), Braised Pork with Preserved Vegetables (梅菜扣肉), and Stuffed Tofu (釀豆腐) are also commonly found in cha chaan teng (茶餐廳, literally “tea restaurant”) and Cantonese restaurants, demonstrating its deep integration into Hong Kong's daily food culture.

"Hakka Cuisine" has been included in Hong Kong's first ICH Inventory of Hong Kong, reflecting its historical value and ethnic significance. Traditional dishes from Hong Kong's Hakka villages, such as The Gau Dai Gwai (九大簋，Nine Big Dishes), pickled vegetables (醃菜), and Ban Kwo (粄粿, Hakka dumplings and cakes), are highly characteristic local dishes that showcase the unique daily life and food culture of the Hakka people. Among these, “The Gau Dai Gwai” represent the highest-grade banquet cuisine of the Hakka and are most representative, previously used primarily in major celebratory occasions like weddings and birthday feasts. With Braised Pork Belly (燜豬肉) as the main dish, it emphasizes “cook extra portions (多煮)” and “continually replenished during the meal (一邊吃一邊添)”, where braised pork belly is continuously served during the meal, symbolizing abundance and continuous good fortune. Currently, “The Gau Dai Gwai” have gradually evolved into “Hakka Basin Meal (客家盆菜)”, becoming a popular dish during festivals such as Mid-Autumn Festival, Winter Solstice (冬至), and Chinese New Year, adding to the festive and gathering atmosphere.

In addition, Ban Kwo snacks are unique Hakka cuisine specialties, highlighting the culinary techniques and food culture centered on rice products. "Kwo (粿)" refers to pastries or foods made from rice, while " Ban (粄)" indicates cakes made from ground rice, serving as festival foods for Hakka people. Ban Kwo comes in various types with diverse preparation methods, particularly serving seasonal functions. During Chinese New Year, there are fried rice cookies (炒米餅), Yuanlong Ban Kwo (圓籠粄粿), and Stir-fried Rice Bar (米層). During the Dragon Boat Festival, people eat Rice Dumpling with Lye (灰水粽) and Rice Dumpling with salted pork (鹹粽). Around the Ching Ming Festival, there are Mugwort Kwo (艾葉粿), Chinese feverine (雞屎藤粿, Chinese feverine sticky rice dumpling is made from leaves of Paederia scandens), and Ramie Leaf Ban (粗麻葉粄). For celebration of new births, people make New Birth Ban (新丁粄) symbolizing joy. These Ban Kwo serve not only as daily and festive delicacies for Hakka people but also as important cultural markers of ethnic festivals, embodying the Cantonese and Hong Kong Hakka people's inheritance of traditional festivals and emphasis on gathering and connecting with family and community.

The inheritance of food production skills is an important form of preserving ethnic memory and plays a crucial role in reinforcing ethnic identity. Many Hakka women learn cooking techniques from female elders in their families, and after arriving in Hong Kong, they continue to practice and pass down these “Food Memories (食物記憶)” to the next generation through daily life. Hakka cuisine carries collective memory that maintain community bonds and further solidify identification with Hakka cultural identity. For example, "Hakka Rice Noodle (客家粉仔)," commonly known as "lao shu zai (老鼠仔, little mice)," are typically white in color during ordinary days but dyed red during birthdays or festive occasions, shared with relatives and friends to express blessings and fulfill a social function of ethnic cohesion.

However, Hakka cuisine faces the challenge of cultural discontinuity. The younger generation generally lacks understanding or willingness to inherit Hakka food culture, and some classic dishes like Salt-baked Chicken and Braised Pork with Preserved Vegetables have been widely incorporated into Cantonese cuisine, gradually diluting their original ethnic characteristics. Facing this development, promotion through school education, community workshops, and intangible cultural heritage projects can help reaffirm its historical origins and cultural identity.