Published on 2023.09.14

 

The Story of Tea-tasting in the Long Cui Cottage

 

It is said that “Tea fragrance permeates all pages of Dream of the Red Chamber”. Why are there so many descriptions of tea in Dream of the Red Chamber?

Cao Xueqin (曹雪芹, circa 1715-1763), was born in a prestigious and famous family. Cao Xueqin’s grandfather Cao Yin (曹寅, 1658-1712) was the Minister of Weaving Department in Jiangning Province (江寧織造督) and the Head of Inspectors of Salt Trading in Huahei River areas (巡鹽禦史). Influenced by senior family members, Cao fell in love with tea as well. Therefore, it is not surprising that Cao would insert the daily scenarios of tea tasting into his novel.

In Chapter 41 of Dream of the Red Chamber, while the protagonist Jia Baoyu (賈寶玉) was tasting tea in the Long Cui Cottage (攏翠庵), Grannie Liu (劉姥姥) got drunk and fell asleep in the Yi Hong Court (怡紅院). The section about the resident of the Long Cui cottage Miao Yu (妙玉) includes the rich and spectacular descriptions of tea appreciation. Here we will explore the art of tea appreciation in the Qing Dynasty from three aspects - tea, tea set and water.

In Chapter 41 of Dream of the Red Chamber, Dowager Lady Jia (賈母, Jia Baoyu’s mother) said to Miao Yu, “I never drink ‘Liu An’ tea (六安茶)!” Miao Yu answered with a smile, “I know it; I prepared the ‘Aged Chün Mei’ tea (老君眉).”

‘Liu An’ tea refers to tea leaf which was nicked-named “Liuan Melon Seed” (六安瓜片), which is originated from Huoshan area in Lu'an County, Anhui Province (安徽六安縣霍山). It was enlisted as a tribute tea (貢茶, also translated as gong cha) to the imperial family during the Qing dynasty. Being a type of green tea, it is believed that Liu An tea is cool in nature. Given its nature, Liu An tea can facilitate digestion and eliminate stagnation after meals, but might cause discomfort in stomach for those who cannot bear that. We can infer from this chapter that Dowager Lady Jia is exactly a tea expert. The ‘Aged Chün Mei’ tea served by Miao Yu to Dowager Lady Jia is also a type of tribute tea. However, what kind of tea that the ‘Aged Chün Mei’ tea refers to is still under controversy among tea-experts.

According to the research, there are three possible answers to what ‘Aged Chün Mei’ tea refers to. The first possible answer is Yellow Tea (黃茶), which refers to JunshanYinzhen (君山銀針, lit 'Silver Needle(s) of the Jun Mountain') from Jun Mountain (君山) in Dongting Lake of the Hunan Province in China (湖南洞庭湖). However, the name ‘Aged Chün Mei’ never appears in the historical archives.

The second possible answer is White Tea (白茶). Dream of the Red Chamber was published in the Qing dynasty, when we only found the category of Yinzhen Baihao (銀針白亳, lit “silver needle as fine as white hair”) among the catalogue of famous tea of Fuding (福鼎, a city in Fujian province). At that time, the recipe of now famous Sau-Mei Tea (壽眉茶) was not yet invented.

The third possible answer is Yancha (岩茶, lit ‘Tea of the rocks’). In the Qing dynasty, Guo Baicang (郭柏蒼, 1815-1890) wrote the book Comprehensive record of Fujian Province’s Specialty – Chapter on Commodities – Section on Tea (《閩產錄異·貨屬·茶》), which says, “Aged Jun Mei, the leaves are long and the taste is strong. However, many of such tea in the market is fake.” (老君眉, 葉長味鬱,然多偽). It was the first time Aged Chün Mei’s name appeared in the historical records.

Yancha is grown in Danxia landscape in Wuyi Mountain (武夷山丹霞地貌). The art of tea-brewing neutralizes its cool nature and enhances its fragrance, making it not only taste sweet and smooth, but also harmless to the stomach while keeping its good quality in eliminating stagnation. Furthermore, Aged Chün Mei (lit. old persons smiling and relaxing their eyebrows) conveys the meaning of good luck and blessing that makes everyone happy. That’s why it is the best choice for the elderly after meals. After comparing the three possible answers, it is commonly believed that Aged Jun Mei tea refers to Yancha.

Dowager Lady Jia only drank half a cup of the tea and gave it to Old Goody Liu for tasting. Old Goody Liu naughtily replied, “it’s good for sure, but it is too weak, it will be better if we can boil it for longer time!” (Note: This revealed that Old Goody Liu is a vulgar person who doesn’t know how to appreciate tea.) Everybody at the scene laughed.

Of course, Old Goody Liu was used to eating coarse rice with very strong taste, therefore it is inevitable that she found the tea too weak. Let’s imagine if the host prepared the tea in accord with Old Goody Liu’s taste, how would Dowager lady Jia feel?

Tea Set

After eating desserts and pastries, Dowager Lady Jia and fellows proceeded to the Long Cui Cottage. The host, Miao Yu, immediately held a small tea tray and presented it to Dowager Lady Jia. The tea-tray was in the shape of a peony, made of red carved lacquer, and inlaid with a gold-gliding figure of a dragon flying over the cloud to celebrate one’s birthday. On the tea-tray, there was a five-colour Ming-Dynasty design teacup with a cover lid from Ming Dynasty-Kiln (成窯五彩小蓋鐘, lit. five-colour porcelain bell from Ming Dynasty Kiln). For other people, Miao Yu provided them with a newly-made standard pure white teacup with a cover lid from the government kiln (官窯脫胎填白蓋碗).

The teacup for Dowager Lady Jia, the five-colour porcelain bell from Ming Dynasty Kiln is said to be a product from the government kiln in Cheng Hua period (明成化年間,1465-1485) of the Ming Dynasty. This type of five-colour porcelain was extremely rare due to limited production. Nowadays, this type of porcelain is extremely expensive and seldom found in the market.

On the other hand, the teacup for other fellows was Qing-Dynasty’s product from the government kiln which fabricated Ming-Dynasty’s Design. It’s called “newly made pure white teacup with a cover lid”, which claimed itself be as white as porcelain made in Yong Le years (明永樂年間,1403-1424) in the Ming Dynasty, which was famous for its thinness and permeability to light. This is a commonly fabricated product in the Qing Dynasty. 

After presenting tea to Dowager Lady Jia, Miao Yu secretly pulled the sleeves of lady Bao Chai (寶釵) and lady Dai Yu (黛玉), hinting them to follow her, and Bao Yu (寶玉) traced them and hid outside the “small talk side room” (小耳房). Miao Yu boiled a pot of hot water and prepared another pot of tea. Bao Yu, who was peeking outside, stepped in and said, “Hey! you hide yourselves and enjoy the best-kept secret tea!” The two ladies smiled and replied, “You want to beg for tea again. There is none for you.”

Miao Yu soon found another two cups. The one with a cup handle was inscribed with three characters in ancient Han Official script styles (隸字), namely “Ban Jia Qiao” ((分瓜)瓟斝, lit. a wine vessel made of divided gourd), and another line of inscription with small fonts, “Beloved Treasure of Jin Dynasty Wang Kai (晉王愷珍玩)” (王愷, 217-circa 291, a noble man known for his wealth) and yet another small footnote “In the fourth month of the fifth year of Yuan Feng years (宋元豐五年,1082) of the Sung Dynasty, which Su Shi (蘇軾, 1037-1101, a famous poet) found in a small hidden room.” (宋元豐五年四月眉山蘇軾見於秘府). Miao Yu filled this cup with tea and presented it to Bao Chai.

Another cup in a shape of a small pot was inscribed with three characters in Qin Dynasty Seal Script (篆字) in Pearl Stroke calligraphy (垂珠), namely “Dian Xi Qiao” (點犀䀉, lit. The pot for lighting rhinoceros’ horn). Miao Yu filled the pot with tea and presented it to Dai Yu. In Chinese, “lighting rhinoceros’ horn” is a quote from the famous poet “we light up our rhinoceros’ horn in our heart and get connected” (心有靈犀一點通) (Translator’s note: In Chinese myth, lighting the rhinoceros’ horn can let one see through the spiritual realms). Finally, she filled her own cup, namely Lü Yu Dou (綠玉鬥, lit. Squared green jade) and presented it to Bao Yu.

Later, Mao Yu was delighted by Bao Yu’s sayings, and eventually brought a big wine vessel called Big Hai (大) to Bao Yu. This vessel was craved with whole bamboo shoot with ten rings weaved in nine knots and one hundred and twenty bamboo joints in total. The bamboo vessel was made in the shape of a coiling dragon. When Bao Yu drank tea with this cup, he felt so delighted that he fell off the ground. He could not help but incessantly praise the quality of the tea (寶玉吃茶, 果覺輕浮無比, 讚賞不絕).

All of the tea set described in Dream of the Red Chamber, namely “the five-colour porcelain bell from Ming Dynasty Kiln”, “newly-made standard pure white teacup with a cover lid from the government kiln”, “vessel made of divided gourd”, “the pot for lighting rhinoceros’ horn”, “squared green jade”, and “coiling dragon vessel made of entire bamboo shoot”, were precious treasures. Also, some of these utensils were inscribed with descriptions like “the beloved treasure of Wang Kai in the Jin Dynasty” and “Su Shi’s discovery”. Furthermore, Miao Yu presented different cups for different people, which reflects the profoundness of Chinese culture and aesthetics.

Water

In The Classic of Tea (茶經) written by Lu Yu (陸羽, 733-804), it says, “For making tea, water from the mountain is the best, river water is average, water from the well is the worst (泉水上, 江水中, 井水下).” Cao Xueqin’s understanding of water is also extraordinary.

While Dowager Lady Jia had tasted the Aged Chun Mei, she asked Miao Yu what kind of water she used for making the tea. Miao Yu replied, “it’s the rainwater collected last year.” During the appreciation of private reserved tea in the “small talk side room” with Bao Yu, Dai Yu and Bao Chai, Dai Yu asked, “is this water also collected from the last year’s rainfall?” Miao Yu replied, “when I was living in the Hsuan Mu Monastery of Scent of the Holy Dragon (玄墓蟠香寺) five years ago, I collected the snow on the plum petals, I worked so hard that my face turned pale green so that I obtained a small pot of water which could fill in a small flower vase. I sealed and buried it, not taking it out until this summer. I only tasted this water once, and this is the second time.”

The clear rainwater collected in the previous year and the snow water collected from the plum petals are both called by the general public as “Water without Roots” (無根水).

“Water without Roots” means that it comes from the sky. This term can broadly refer to water obtained from dew, rainwater, snow, and frost etc. What is the difference between ordinary water and “water without roots”? Usually, ordinary water could be divided into heavy water (deuterium oxide) and light water (water contains no deuterium oxide). Deuterium Oxide is known to be inhibitive to our metabolism. The “water without roots”, which is not taken from the ground, has much less deuterium oxide (less heavy water). Therefore, the sentence “Bao Yu was so delighted that he fell off the ground and couldn’t help himself praising incessantly for the quality of the tea” is an extremely accurate description of “Water without Roots”.

Plum flowers start to blossom on La Yue (臘月, lit: the last month of the lunar year). The snow fallen on this month is called La Xue (lit: 臘雪snow fallen on the month “La Yue”). In Bencao Gangmu (本草綱目) aka the Compendium of Materia Medica or Great Pharmacopoeia) written by Li Shizhen (李時珍, 1518-1593), it says, “Snow fallen in the last month of the year, which is cold but not toxic, can cure every toxin in the body. It can be used to cure pandemic arisen from unexpected weather. Also, it can not only cure children’s seizure and incessant crying due to fever, but also cure adults who drink too much and suffer from heat stroke in the body after taking too much stone power (note: a type of drugs). If one suffers from jaundice, the ‘water without roots’ should be heated a bit before drinking. For those with eye inflammation, the inflammation would be cured by washing the eyes using ‘water without roots’. For normal people, one can use this water to prepare tea or congee so that one could eliminate the heat from the body and no longer feel thirsty (臘雪甘冷無毒,解一切毒。治天行時氣瘟疫,小兒熱癇狂啼,大人丹石發動,酒後暴熱,黃疸仍小溫服之。藏器洗目退赤;煎茶煮粥,解熱止渴). Ancient Chinese used the “water without roots” to make tea and congee, to eliminate body heat and quench one’s thirst. This is not only healthy but also romantic. We could imagine that it is so difficult to collect snow from peony petals. Miao Yu buried this water for five years and treasured it so much, but only shared this when Bao Yu, Dai Yu and Bao Chai visited her. To share one’s treasure with friends is also a blessing as it means that one encounters a truly magical moment.

Good tea must pair up with a good tea set, a good tea set must be filled with good water. None of the above could be missed from the preparation of a cup of good tea. When the heartily-prepared tea is appreciated in a tranquil environment, tea is not just for drinking and tasting, but even the art of life.

In the other chapters of Dream of the Red Chamber, there are many scenes about tea and tea appreciation, for example, Bao Yu’s favourite Acer Truncatum tea (楓露茶) and Longjing tea (龍井茶) served to the guests in Dai Yu’s living place Xiao Xiang Pavilion (瀟湘館, lit: Pavilion of the Xiao river and Xiang River). The lacquered tea-tray in the living room of Dowager Lady Jia was paired up with various teacups with various styles. Cao Xueqin is really a big fan of tea, and he opens a new window of all tea lovers to look into the ancient Chinese tea culture.


 

Reference:

 
Book

1. 曹雪芹著,毛時安、任一鳴編:《紅樓夢(圖文普及本)》(香港:中華書局(香港有限公司),2002)。

 

Chenhong Zhao

Born in Wutai Mountain in Shanxi, the birthplace of Guan Yu, which is also one of the four sacred Buddhist places in China.
Major in Interior design and engaged in art teaching.
Loving tea, making tea, drinking tea, and spreading the tea culture.
Interested in photography. View the world from a multi-perspective.
Hope to capture the stunning scenery and enjoy life to the fullest.


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